Le meilleur des cordes

© Escalade Alsace
Yann Corby


20 octobre 2009 :
C'est en Sardaigne sur la falaise Domusnovas qu'Adam Ondra s'est offert sa 27ème voie dans le 9ème degré!

Il a libéré Marina superstar une ligne de 35 mètres qui est en fait l'extension d'un 8c/c+ (Marina). Outre trois essais pour caler les méthodes en 2008, la voie lui aura demandé quatre jours d'essais cette année.
Adam pense qu'il sagit de l'itinéraire le plus dur qu'il ait enchaîné à ce jour et propose donc 9a+/b !!

Comme à l'accoutumée son photographe Vojtech Vrzba a imortalisé l'ascension, vous trouverez 16 superbes images sur son blog.

Témoin privilégié de cette superbe peformance, Vojtech nous propose une description de la voie :

A 35metres long, extremely overhanging route - called Marina Superstar (extension of existing route Marina 8c/c+) was bolted by Matteo Marini, is situated in sector "Bronx" near Domusnovas vilage about 40kms from Cagliari.
Adam tried this project last year already. It starts as a 8b+ pitch in 45 dehrees overhang, then it continues over 4 quickdraws to another chain (8c/c+) and after that, without any rests, comes a boulder problem of 7C+ Fr in nearly vertical roof to an edge of the cave. Several hard moves with heelhooks and one good resthold and comes another boulder problem on the edge of the cave - going from horizontal roof to a vertical wall. The difference between last bolt and the chain is approximately 6metres!
Adam Ondra sent this route on Tuesday evening after 4 days of working on it. During his tries there were broken two tufas in the roof, where he could rest a bit so he had to change the sequence as well and was obliged to use wet tufa and match on it too! That made probably the "slash" in the grade of the route. Adam was thinking about the grade for couple of days to say the final verdict - 9a+/b.
During his stay in Sardinia he managed to make first ascents of another hard routes in sectors Bronx (Death Row 8c+) and in Ruota del Tempo (The Voice 8c+). In the meantime he had onsinghted seven routes from 8a to 8b.


Merci à Vojtech et bravo Adam!!


» Toutes les photos de Marina Superstar 9a+/b
» Une interview d'Adam
» Un portfolio d'Adam vur par Vojtech, avec des images de Marina Superstar 9a+/b


      
Marina Superstar 9a+/b [Photos : Vojtech Vrzba]








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